It's quite thick, so gives insulation as well as blocking light. You can add interlining to Roman blinds, as well as a blackout lining, that's no problem. How much fabric do I need to make a Roman shade? For a xinch window, use a xinch piece of fabric.
How much cord do I need for a roman blind? Default Parameters used in these instructions. How do Roman blinds work? A Roman blind is essentially an envelope made from a flat piece of fabric and a lining.
When the cords are all pulled simultaneously together, the bottom dowel is raised up to meet the next dowel above, creating a fold in the fabric and so on up the blind until it is in its fully raised or open position.
What material is used for Roman blinds? Lightweight taffeta or faux silk is ideal for creating crisp looking folds which shows off the smooth, lustrous sheen of the fabric beautifully. What is a waterfall roman blind? Roman blinds are a window treatment consisting of a flat panel of fabric with a lining on the back, which is pulled up in flat concertina pleats at the top of the window when open.
Calculate: Only click here if you are sure all the information you have entered is correct for the blind you wish to make.
A copy will also be emailed to you. The following instructions are based on the default parameters, and you should note that the hem allowances, rod pocket sizes etc quoted in the following text may not be the same as your own preferred parameters.
To check or amend your Parameters, go to Your Account. Check the fabric for flaws before cutting, and consider how the fabric pattern will be distorted by the folds of the blind. Think also about the pattern placement, centralisation and fabric orientation.
Following the measurements on the Roman Blind Wizard Workroom Instructions, cut out the face fabric, lining and interlining if using. If the finished width of the blind is wider than the fabric, you must join the widths first.
Full width s in the middle and half-widths either side. Consider railroading the fabric, Turning it sideways or adding contrast borders to achieve the desired width, as joins can be unsightly. Lay the lining right side up, with the lower edge closest to you. Using a large set-square, place one side against the folded side edge of the lining, and draw a pencil line at a right angle, about one centimetre up from the bottom edge of the lining, across the entire width of the lining.
Use the set square to check that this line is also at right angles to the opposite side of the lining. In this way, your pencil line should be a true right angle to the two sides of the blind. Following the measurements on the Roman Blind Wizard Workroom Instructions, mark the position of the first rod pocket from the pencil line at the bottom edge of the lining. Use a fading marker to draw a line all across the lining at this measurement.
Draw a parallel line 1 cm up from this line. Check that lines are at right angles to the folded side edge. Fold the lining along the top line, wrong sides together, and pin in place, making sure that the folded side hems are maintained.
Check again for exact right angles. Mark the position of the second rod pocket by measuring up from the stitching line of the first pocket. Make this pocket as before. Then measure from the stitching line of the second pocket to mark the position of the third.
Repeat until all pockets are complete. In this way, measuring from stitch line to stitch line the measurements calculated by the Wizard will be correct, whatever size rod pocket you make, and even if you use rod pocket tape. Lay the face fabric wrong side up. Add the interlining layer if using.
Prepare the mitred corners with a template or by measuring as follows:. Measure the hem allowance from the bottom hem line up the side raw edge and mark. Measure the hem allowance along the bottom raw edge from the side hemline and mark. Fold and gently press along this line.
Turn the side and bottom hems in and pin in place. Position the pins so that they can be accessed after the lining is laid on top. Pin the mitred corners in place. If using interlining, herringbone the side and bottom hems in position, but do not catch the face fabric with these stitches. With the face fabric wrong side up and clamped in place, use the cumulative measurements on the Roman Blind Wizard Workroom Instructions to mark the positions of all the rod pockets along each side of the blind.
Place the lining on top with the rod pockets uppermost. Make sure you have the lining with the first rod pocket towards the bottom of the blind. A link has been emailed to you - check your inbox.
If you are registered with us, an email with instructions to reset your password has been sent. Downloads Follow our extra tips to make the perfect Roman blind Before you get stuck in stitching, study our measurement guide and download the diagram below to visualise the finished result of your Roman blind. Click here to download these templates.
Also this Month Stitching Scrappy Scarf Want to get your child interested in a new hobby? I want all the blinds to be hung at the same point, 10cm down from the ceiling and I want them all to look the same when folded up. Unfortunately there is a difference in the drop for each window.
The difference from first blind the sixth blind is 1. I think I have worked out how to make the top pleat the same for all blinds by altering the rod spacing across the blinds. This means when open, they will look the same, but the rods wont line up across the blinds. Do you think this makes sense? Will it matter that the rods dont line up? The most important thing is to get the top pleat sections all the same so the blinds all look the same when they are pulled up.
You will obviously have the same number of rods for each blind. The 1. You have 2 options. Remember to keep the top pleat section sizes the same and ensure you have a big enough headrail allowance to make sure the blind can be fully pulled up. We would probably go for option 2. If you look at our facebook page another sewer has commented they had the same problem and said option 2 worked perfectly.
Hello, am a little confused at what will work best. My window is cm in length and the wizard has given me a number of options. What would you suggest? It's all about design decisions and really that comes down to personal choice. The 2 key things to decide are. Hi there, thank you so much for your site, I am making a cm drop by 60cm finished width and length a small roman for the toilet, could you please tell me how many rods I need and distance apart each, I am hoping to get at least 3 rods.
I have tried the calculator but keep getting error and am tearing my hair out! Many thanks. Hi Jane, the number of rods is half the number of pleat sections minus 1. So for 3 rods you will need 7 pleat sections, 4 rods 9 pleat sections etc. An error message comes up on the calculator if you put in figures that are impossible to calculate. I am trying to make a cm drop roman blind - but my wooden baton is only 3 cm - so my calculations won't go into your calculator.
So I have worked out that 19cm at the top and Is this correct. Your figures don't make sense i'm afraid. The Headrail allowance is not the size of the headrail. It is the distance from the top of the blind down to where the folds form.
It includes extra space under the headrail to make room for eyelets with a wooden batten and stop the folds pulling up into the headrail. We advise 1. All the info is in the instructions above. I would like to hoist my blind high to allow max light into the room.
I am hanging it outside the recess and judge that the batten can be fixed 10cm above the window there is 32cm total space to the ceiling. I wonder whether I could have fold depths of Do you think this would work or is it too many folds? If you are hanging the blind above the recess and the batten is tight against the wall the folds will push against the wall and probably outwards if you have 5 rod pockets.
Obviously the thicker the fabric the more they will push out. As to whether this will work we can't say not knowing the your fabric, thickness of batten how you are going to mount it etc.
When you have sewn in all your rod pockets on the lining how much fabric should be left at the top above the last rod pocket? One fold i. I've become a little confused about the length of the folds calculated in step 2. I had cm amount to be folded finished blind - 6cm headrail allowance and want 10cm folds.
I divided by 13 which equals Do I then separate my rod pockets my 22? Or 20? Above the last rod pocket will be 2 pleat sections which form 1 fold , the headrail allowance, plus the 5cm heading allowance. If you go for 20cm rather than 22cm gaps afteryou've made your calculation, you will end up with a bigger headrail allowance and the blind being deeper when pulled up. Hi I'm planning to make cascading Roman blinds, with a cassette kit.
I would prefer to have a couple of pleats still in place at the bottom of the blind when the blind is fully let down, as I don't like the completely flat look.
Presume I achieve this by just making the blind longer than the window, by allowing fabric for a couple of 'extra' pleats? Hi, I am making a very small Roman blind, 40cm drop and 90cm wide within a recess. The headrail is 2. I have deducted this from the 40cm, but I cannot get an accurate place to put the 1 rod I need, using the calculations in your example.
Can you suggest the placing for the rod pocket please? It can be done. We personally don't think wide roman blinds look good though and they are more difficult to make as well, especially if you are a beginner and dont have a big table. I have a drop of cm width 2metres, not sure what would look better 3 or 4 rod pockets with Put a tape up to the window and see how big the blind will be when pulled up, top pleat section and make a judgement. We would go for 4 rod pockets.
You choose a headrail allowance and it has an affect on the size of the blind when pullled up, note there is a minimum it can be. See our blog item that explains headrail allowances. Roman Blind Headrail Allowance Explained.
I have 2 window one with cm drop and the other with 87cm drop. For the first window I have made the blind with 5 rod pockets 26cm spacing between pockets.
My finished length of blind is cms, headrail 4cms. I chose 7 pleats but it is coming up as error even if I choose more or less pleats.
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